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Hidden Treasure of the Month!
October, 2004 - Varenna
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Click images to see them full-size
The Italian Lake District is renowned worldwide among experienced travelers. From Lago Maggiore to Lago d'Orta to Lago di Como to Lago d'Iseo to Lago di Garda, and many, many others, there are indeed numerous hidden treasures to be discovered by curious tourists. This month, however, we are going to point you in the direction of one in particular: the world famous Lake Como (Lago di Como).
 View of Varenna from the lake ferry
In our opinion, Lake Como is the most varied and most fascinating of all the Italian lakes, with its inverted "Y" shape, surrounded by steep, rocky green hills on all sides, and located less than 50 km north of Milano... easy to reach by car or train. Furthermore, we are going to point you in even a more specific direction: to the incredibly charming village of Varenna , on the eastern shore of Lake Como.
 Lake panorama from Castello di Vezio
The majority of people who know Lake Como are actually most familiar with the picturesque western shore of the lake, stretching north from the city of Como, half-way up the length of the lake to the picturesque town of Menaggio... and not just because George Clooney owns a villa on this stretch of the lake shore (at Laglio). Then, just a short ferry ride from Menaggio is the famous village of Bellagio (no, this is not a hotel in Las Vegas!), located on a magnificent promontory at the "Y" juncture of the lake.
What most people do not know, is that it takes just another short ferry ride from Bellaggio (or also directly from Menaggio) to reach this month's hidden treasure: the delightful old village of Varenna, on the eastern shore of the lake. Varenna has a long history, and is characterized by its steep, narrow walkways, with occasional arches, leading up the hill away from the lake. The town is perhaps most famous for its Villa Monastero, originally a Cistercian monastery built in 1208... and now a wonderful place to visit, with its gardens, arcaded terrace, and arched windows and balconies overlooking the lake.
 Hotel Olivedo behind Mariella
But it is quite enough to take a leisurely stroll along the lakeside promenade, stopping for an apertivo at an open air café, and gazing over the tranquil lake waters and dark green hills! Or, if you are feeling particularly adventurous, you can even climb up to the Castello di Vezio above the village, for a breathtaking panorama of Lake Como looking towards Bellagio.
Our favorite place to stay in Varenna is also one of our favorite small inns in all of Italy, the charming Hotel Olivedo, right on the lake front. As described by Nicole Franchini in the Karen Brown guide, "...In the main piazza lakeside is the generations-old family-run Olivedo hotel with its pale-yellow façade where Signora Laura welcomes her guests. Time seems to have stood still within its old-fashioned interior. The reception area and side bar are dressed with faded floral wallpaper, scattered antiques, and a large grandfather clock chiming the hour. Off to the other side of the reception area is a dining room/restaurant with simple frescoes, serving all meals. A curved stairway takes guests up to the bedrooms, most with en-suite bathrooms and lake views..."
 Signora Laura and Mariella
To learn more about what the enchanting Italian Lake District has to offer - including our favorite local restaurants and other charming accommodations options - just call or e-mail Mariella.
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