Hidden Treasure of the Month!

June, 2005 - Massa Marittima

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Click images to see them full-size

Let’s talk a bit about the “forgotten” Tuscany… that part of Tuscany to the southwest of Siena, also known as the Maremma region – green hills, hill-top villages, and the purest sea coast in all of Italy.

One of the most fascinating hill towns in this region is Massa Marittima, just 70 kilometers southwest of Siena, and just 20 kilometers from the sea. The piazza of the old city is dominated by its 11th century Duomo (Cathedral), called St. Cerbone. An apertivo in the late afternoon, seated before the church, will be a further reminder of why you chose to spend your vacation in Italy!

St. Cerbone in the central piazza of Massa

St. Cerbone in the central piazza of Massa


You can also walk up the hill in town, to the Fortezza dei Senesi (the Sienese Fortress), and climb the tower (the Torre del Candeliere), where you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Duomo from above, the green hills surrounding the town, the island of Elba, and even as far as the island of Corsica, up to 100 kilometers out to sea!

View of Massa's old town from the Sienese Fortress

View of Massa's old town from the Sienese Fortress


Another of our favorite places to visit in this area is located exactly half-way between Siena and Massa – the ruins of the 13th century Cistercian abbey, San Galgano. This early gothic ruin is one of the most evocative sites in all of Tuscany – majestic, impressive, and silent.

An external view of the San Galgano abbey ruins

An external view of the San Galgano abbey ruins


And on the hill above the abbey you will also find a hermitage with a strange Romanesque rotunda, with an amazing dome. This small church was built in the 12th century in honor of San Galgano. And for visitors who are particularly susceptible to the romance of middle ages, the hermitage also houses San Galgano’s legendary “sword in the stone” (a la King Arthur…)… well worth the visit.

One of our favorite places to stay in southwest Tuscany, is located about 25 kilometers south of Massa, and is called Montebelli, in a valley below the town of Caldana.

The main guesthouse at Montebelli

The main guesthouse at Montebelli


As described by Nicole Franchini in the Karen Brown guide, ”The gorgeous Montebelli property, situated in the Maremma, the wild west of Italy, consists of 300-plus acres of mountain, hills, and plain, all close to the sea. The owner, Lorenzo, his simpatica wife, Carla, and son, Alessandro, now divide their time and energy between their guests and the production of wines and olive oil. At the foot of the hills is the main guesthouse… the rooms are decorated tastefully with antiques and including all the amenities of a regular hotel…”

Swimming pool at Montebelli, surrounded by green lawns

Swimming pool at Montebelli, surrounded by green lawns


”This is unexplored territory, full of historic treasures and Etruscan remains. Scenic walks on marked trails, a swimming pool, tennis courts, horse riding, and summer concerts are available on the property.

To find out more about this less-visited part of Tuscany – including our favorite restaurants and other local “hidden treasures” – just call or e-mail Mariella.


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